No, I am not talking about myself, no worries. But about my first bit of the Te Araroa on the South Island of New Zealand. And let me tell you, no better start than this.
It is not difficult to explain why I am so taken by the Queen Charlotte trail. For one, it has proper maintenance and signs. The estimates on the signs are pretty good for my speed (or the lack of mine once it goes straight uphill). But I was in love the moment I had a first view of Marlborough Sounds from the top. I have to add that I could not have had better weather than those three days, and even when overcast the beauty was breathtaking.
But let’s start how to get to Ship Cove, which is the place where Captain Cook landed four times and the trail starts.
After taking the ferry from Wellington to Picton you have to get a ride on one of the water taxis that brings you there. It takes about 90 min but worth every minute, especially as we saw a school of dolphins. Unfortunately, I was not fast enough to take a good picture.


Once you arrive in Ship Cove you can take your time reading about the history of it. Which is really interesting and shows how good natured attempts to co-exist can go sour very quickly.
Also you very likely will be greeted by one or more weka, the other flightless bird in New Zealand, apart from the kiwi. They are, pardon my French, cheeky little bastards. Noisy, bold and kind of hysteric once you move.
Two weka in a fight over territory is kind of hilarious and upsetting. Also I caught one picking on my tent, which really upset me, as I already have an unexplained hole in my rainfly.
Once you start your hike it gently meanders uphill and just the pure abundance of plants I have never seen before is breathtaking. The pictures hardly capture what I experienced, but I try my best to share the beauty of it.











After my hike of the Michi no ku, I am happy to actually be back in nature, even if that means compost toilet, no shower and carrying all your food. I know that the trail will have some less pleasant and more difficult sections coming but I feel, that the prep you can do and the maps that are available, even without cell reception are amazing and supported by a proper organisation that knows what they are doing.
Due to the fact, that my ferry was delayed and I had to change my plans, I did not completely finished it. About 10 km are missing, but that is just the way it is. I have a feeling I might come back and do it again.
Hi! It was really nice meeting you in Tāupo a few weeks ago! You expressed care and concern for a fellow friend who wasn’t wearing the proper hiking clothes before Tongariro Alpine Crossing the next day – luckily I had a a puffer jacket he could borrow (was very much needed, and he finally accepted with your recommendation). The trek was brutal, freezing, but also very rewarding as we climbed around Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. Hope you are enjoying your adventures and look forward to where you are traveling next. All the best wishes, Andrew
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