It has been a while since I have published something. I have to admit that traveling quite extensively, digesting all the impressions and then putting it immediately into writing, is something that does not work for me. Some things need time to find the right words. That is why some of the places I have been to still need some attention, but not today.
Today it is all about Kyoto.
At some stage during this journey I actually arrived at a point to say “That’s it, I am done with Japan!”
There are only that many cities you can endure, that are in the process of dying of old age, people as much as buildings. Only that many times you go to one of the major convenient stores, and in the end buying the same things. Despite my adaptation to the culture, I do not belong and I am not making meaningful connections.
And then I arrived in Kyoto….
I said before that Kyoto is the place where my heart belongs, not really being able to explain what that means or even why that is.
Kyoto hits different!
Even before I started thinking of a year in Japan it was clear to me that Kyoto is the place where I wanted go to. And there was never a doubt about it. The very first time I arrived in Kyoto I instantly felt at home. After a day of travelling, being sexually harassed by a greasy old guy on the Shinkansen and driving the taxi driver crazy because I hauled my dirty luggage into the backseat and he was not able to find the I-House (my dormitory) without asking about five people.
I fell in love – immediately and unconditionally.
Let me try to explain, why it might be that this is the place I long for when I am not in Japan.
Kyoto is old, very old. Already in 794 it became the capital of Japan the residence of the Tenno. Only in 1868 this residence was moved to Tokyo. I am not going into history mode, but if you are interested look up Meiji period.
Though Kyoto does experience earthquakes it is not in too much danger and not in reach of any tsunamis. Surrounded by mountains on three sides it has a somewhat sheltered feeling to it and cannot spread as much as the bigger cities in Japan.
Therefore you will find very old wooden buildings in Kyoto, mostly shrines and temples. Also Kyoto has not suffered major war damages and owes its existence as it is today to the fact, that the Americans, on advise of general MacArthur, took Kyoto off the list of possible targets for the atomic bomb.
That and two regulations give Kyoto its unique beauty. Firstly there is a law about the height of buildings in specific areas of the city, and secondly if a wooden house (machi-ya) is torn down because it is old, it has to be replaced by a house that at least from the outside is a typical machi-ya.
In that respect it reminds me of Lübeck, where I lived many years.
Because of the geographical restrictions, Kyoto feels with its comparatively small number of inhabitants more inaka (countryside) than the inaka itself.
If you are in the middle of the city you can jump on a bus and will be close to the mountains very quickly on either side, except for the south. And because of the chess board layout you can very often just see them looking down a street.
When I last came to Kyoto 14 years ago, the city had lost some of its glam. Places like Teramachi or Nishiki market where quite run down. Not as bad as some of the more rural places, but it showed.
But let me tell you, as much as I hate how many tourist are around, the “Lady” definitely took advantage of it. And she is not shy to put the picture taking, noisy and uninformed strangers into their place. While walking down Nishiki market, that offers a lot of food, there was frequently an announcement in three languages, telling people that it is not allowed to eat or drink while walking… And let’s be honest, every sign has a story
I admire this confidence of a city that has survived warrior monks and all kinds of ups and downs in Japanese history.
On top of it Kyoto’s anachronisms are the sexiest things I have ever seen in a city. May it be the monk on his scooter or the modern, stylish shop with all kinds of latest clothing lines besides the very traditional paper shop that has been already in the same place for ages when I arrived 32 years ago. Also the ease with which young people walk the streets in traditional clothing gets me every single time.
Even the kaiten shushi on the corner of Karasuma and Sanjo is still there. And in between smaller and bigger temples and shrines with a variety of stories why they are in existence.
Kyoto is old….
…. but young at heart.
At least three of the major players in the university game have campuses in Kyoto and it shows. You go to a coffee shop and will see students feverishly working on their papers. And besides the very traditional art and craft places you will encounter shops that sell handcrafted products which are clearly routed in the history of that craft but with a modern touch that feels just right.
One moment you are one a busy street and then you turn 90 degrees and see a little creek flowing lazily through the backyard of one of the the main streets.
There is a liveliness to Kyoto that keeps a balance between not being boring and still emanating a calm which grounds you in kindness.
And then there is the light…
Kyoto has its own glow. By any means I am not able to explain it. Very likely it is just my glorified view of the place but I swear, the light is different. And it does not matter whether it’s in the morning or late afternoon. There is something that speaks to me.
Though I love Kyoto, it is a bit of a tragic love story. I miss it as soon as I leave but I would not be able to live here again. Not only the logistics are an issue, the sense of belonging is something I struggled with for more than two years and always will. Sometimes the place where one was born or grew up has the stronger bond, even though Kyoto was the place where for the first time I was able to be myself because no one knew me.
While I re-read this entry I realize that it is useless to try to explain what makes this place so special to me. It’s just scratching on the surface. But perhaps I was able to wake your curiosity to book a flight and go and see for yourself…
One Year - Five Continents 